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Pasta alla Puttanesca |
When asked recently to identify
my personality by food, inexplicably, I blurted out “puttanesca.” I wasn't talking to a group of friends, but a
group of college students, so the indelicacy and borderline inappropriateness of
my remark was obvious. In this case, the
students, who were accompanying me on a field trip, took the revelation in
stride and simply sniggered. For a brief
moment, I was that funny someone-about-my-mom’s-age woman (who most definitely doesn't have sex) instead of their professor.
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The magnificent Sophia Loren |
It’s not that I think I’m “a la whore,” though
the comparison makes me laugh out loud because l must confess to a jolt of
pleasure whenever I manage to shock the audience at hand. In the end, the reason I uttered the word as
emblematic of my personality has to do the fact that I like spontaneity and, ask
anyone who knows me, I don’t do anything by halves. And that’s the thing about puttanesca: you can make it in ten or twenty minutes, and the
flavors are big and bold and in your face.
When I imagine a Roman whore, I
must confess I picture someone sexy like Sophia Loren as Mara in Vittorio Di
Seca’s Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow.
And when I say I want to cook like a whore, what I mean is that I want the ability
to try many things, to change my mood (and my food) at a moment’s notice. I want to put on a display, to be a little
saucy, and to be turned on by what is on my palate and my plate.
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Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow |
Being a whore means giving yourself
to the pleasure of the meal. How many
times have you let yourself be immersed in flavors? What was your last
memorable food experience? Can you recall the briny flavor of shrimp on the Po’Boy
you ate on the Gulf of Mexico, watching the chocolate waters churn? Or how the last of the season’s tart apples
offset the earthiness of the Gorgonzola on the grilled pizza you ate al fresco with friends on the last warm
day in November before winter set in? Pleasure
has context and so the scrambled eggs the city dwelling boyfriend made me a few
weeks ago at his house were amazing simply because he cooked them for me. Think about memorable meals you ate camping
or with someone you hadn’t seen in a long time, and you’ll know what I mean.
In the end, what I am saying is
that we must slow down enough to enjoy food as a sensual, sensate part of our
lives. Let’s go beyond nourishment to pleasure. Let’s pick fun and creativity
and sexy costume changes.
Being a whore in the kitchen also
means being bold and risky: For
Thanksgiving, try the Turducken or brine the turkey for a change; it’s okay to
stray from your great great grandmother’s recipe when, let’s face it, people ate squirrel. And while being a whore doesn’t
necessarily mean making a big production (though those are fun, too), it does
mean putting food first. Last night, when I got home late with a week’s worth
of groceries and I was rushing to make my 9 o’clock phone date with Greg, I put
the cold stuff away and left canned goods, apples, and potatoes in their bags
so I’d have the time to butterfly and cut up the lovely boned quarter leg of
lamb I got for a steal and drizzle it with olive oil, smashed garlic, rosemary,
and kosher salt. Tonight I will skewer
the lamb and grill it, along with asparagus spears. Simple.
And very very sexy.
And even
though I will be dining by myself, I will open a Pinot Noir, and eat everything
with my fingers, enjoying the succulent texture and juice of rare lamb in my mouth, and the saltiness of al dente asparagus
dipped in olive oil.
Later, I will stream De Sica’s film and pretend I’m in Rome.
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