The Year of Shrimp and Grits
Karen's Shrimp and Grits |
What better way to ring out the old
year and ring in the new than by celebrating the serendipity of the last 365
days? If Christmas is all about life’s nostalgia
and tradition, then New Year’s Eve should be about reveling in its surprises. This time of year, I like to think not only
of the people and circumstances that have been written into my memory, but also,
and most especially, the food. Memorable
dishes linger the same way a lover’s kiss is written into the skin---especially
those dishes I’ve discovered and then made my own.
In 2013, it was Shrimp and Grits.
Oak's Shrimp and Grits |
Last spring, when the air was
still crisp with winter and the sun merely hinted at the warmth to come, I had
lunch with my friend Giulia at Oak at Fourteenth. The shrimp and grits on their menu is a
revelation: light, creamy, full of briny
seafood flavor, with just the right amount of heat to warm the belly on a windy
day. I tried to replicate this yummy
concoction for the city-dwelling boyfriend by culling ideas from several
recipes, using my palate and memory as a guide.
I used Tasso ham for smokiness and spice, cream for richness, tomatoes
to replicate the color of the dish and, for good measure, some Old Bay for Cajun flavor. Much to my dismay, my grits sagged under too
much dry spice and tasted sharp and heavy, while the memory of Oak’s floated in
a thin, clear air. Something was
missing, and clearly my technique was off. Oak’s dish had a clean crispness mine couldn’t begin to approach.
Everywhere I went, I raved about
the shrimp and grits, and I sent more than one friend to Oak to give them a
try. I went back again and again and
even sent the chef my email, asking simply for the ingredient list. Then, the food gods smiled on me: My sister and fellow-foodie, Nancy, came
across the recipe in a local newspaper and passed it along. Turns out the secret ingredient is
fennel. But the recipe, which looks easy, is deceptive. I had to make some of my own amendments, but after
one experimental attempt, I was enjoying a dish that has all my friend raving.
Randy's Willie Cake |
So in celebration of the old year
and anticipation of the new, Greg and I gathered with my Nebraska neighbors
Sandi and Randy for oysters Rockefeller, Shrimp and Grits, and Randy’s Willie
cake. We toasted each other and the passing
of what has been a tough year on the mountain with Chambord-laced Cava and
thought about the utter riches of simple pleasures. When I tasted the sweetness of shrimp thick
with rich cheesy grits lightened by the cleanness of fennel and crisp white wine,
I was reminded not only of the importance of love and friendship and the
sharing of food, but of curiosity and surprise and serendipity. I whispered a little prayer of thanks and
raised a glass to the discovery of days to come.
Happy 2014!
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