A Different Kind of Slow Food
It’s true my spring break won’t be celebrated with the kind
of fun you get with beaches and beers, but still I’m hoping to decompress from
the duel pressure cookers of teaching and my mother's illness and take a long,
much-needed inhale. So I put on Vivaldi
and dream of seeds slumbering in the earth, and think of recipes that require
me to cultivate the same kind of stillness and patience. I land on something lighter than traditional pancakes
that will wake up my food sensibility to spring and still make me feel cozy
during the storm.
Lemon Soufflé Pancakes are delicate and fluffy, but like their
namesake, can be fiddly. The trick is to
make and served them quickly to keep them from losing their lift. But, they’re perfect when you want to slow
down and treat yourself or someone you love.
I begin by separating two eggs into separate bowls. Into the yolk bowl goes ricotta cheese, lemon
zest and a bit of juice, a pinch of salt and baking powder, and a couple of table
spoons of flour and sugar (Lemon souffle pancakes). This mixture, when combined, is thick and deeply
lemon in color and taste. Frankly, I could eat it by the finger-full. Next, I whip the whites with a bit more sugar
and a pinch of cream of tartar before folding the whites into the lemon ricotta
bowl. The result is a pillowy concoction
that looks exactly like a pre-cooked soufflé.
Drop this mixture about a 1/3 cup at a time into a heated
fry pan. The pan should be hot; you want
the cakes to cook fast so they retain their fluff, but not so fast they over-brown
or blacken. Too slow, and the pancakes
lose their frothiness. I let the cakes
one by one, using a thin metal spatula to carefully turn each and then place
them in a warm oven.
Lemon Souffle Pancakes with Blueberries |
When they’re done, I sprinkle the pancakes with powdered
sugar and fresh blueberries, and sit down with a streaming cup of coffee,
watching as the snow continues to thicken the trees. The first bite is pure pleasure: a weightless combination of sweet lemon and
delicate ricotta. My mouth fills and
empties as each bite melts away into sheer taste. Outside, the world is quiet, and for one moment,
so am I.
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